You’ll find thrills by the minute for every hour you spend on float trips in SierraOutdoorRecreation.com’s backyard. Plus, take other times to relax, have a cold one, and contemplate what Ma Nature has wrought. Pick fresh berries from wild, shoreline gardens, and you have a gourmet meal au naturel.
SierraOutdoorRecreation.com helps you decide which river or stream and ultimately which runs appeal to you and your skill level. We list all noted river and stream runs in our backyard. We’ve compiled information from several sources listed below, tempered by discussions with local residents and our own experiences. We strongly recommend picking up detailed guidebooks and talking to local whitewater outfitters, such as Wolf Creek Wilderness in Grass Valley, before starting out.
SierraOutdoorRecreation.com maps and Area Guides locate most put-in and take-out locations with directions. Click on individual sites shown on Area Maps to get additional information.
Ultimately, successful runs rest in your hands, heart, and head. Difficulty ratings as listed are compilation of others’ experiences, not your own -- until you have successfully run that rapid. Ratings routinely change ½ to 1 Class -- especially in high water when hydraulic intensity increases. Often, low waters become more technical and hazardous as rocks emerge. Rapids change as rocks move or tree logs become wedged into the slide you ran last year. When in doubt, scout.
The feet per mile (fpm) listings are averages to provide an indication of how fast the river drops. Averages can be deceiving; where information was available, we described variations.
Don’t attempt these rivers unless you have good equipment and are experienced. But there’s another fun option: increase comfort levels markedly by floating with Commercial Guides. Auburn State Recreation Area, Tahoe and El Dorado National Forests (phone numbers in Introduction) can provide lists of permitted outfitters in their areas. When we are aware that commercial outfitters run the specific location we are describing, we list that as an option.
Detailed sources we recommend (with our comments in
parentheses):
Online www.Creekin.net is an excellent website developed by Bill Tuthill and an "an alliance of people who enjoy gravity-assisted water-based recreational activities." (A detailed whitewater and touring guide for California boating. River descriptions usually contain links to real-time flow information. Descriptions kept more up to date than published books.)
A Guide to the Best Whitewater in the State of California by Lars Holbek and Chuck Stanley (most color commentary).
California Whitewater by Jim Cassady and Fryar Calhoun (most information).
The American River, North, Middle & South Forks published by Protect American River Canyons (PARC) (most detail for American forks).
A Boating Trail Guide to the North and Middle Forks of the American River pamphlet (good map, waterproof) available at Auburn State Recreation Area.
Close to civilization, easily accessed, yet, many rate this Fork more challenging than the overly popular South Fork American.
See Directory Map and Auburn State Recreation Area Map
……Class IV with one V, 23 feet per minute; kayaks, rafts, commercial guides; float 15 miles, shuttle 25 miles, paved except for 3 miles of (usually) rough Drivers Flat Road, 1 hour. See Auburn State Recreation Area Map.
……Timing early morning runs with the 1200 cfs (Cubic Feet per Second) release of Ralston Dam means the floating season lasts longer -- except in drought years. The most fun hazard is through a 211’ miner’s tunnel with an 18’ slide into a glorious pool. Down below, the roar of Ruck-a-Chucky rapids (Class VI) reminds everyone that those house-sized boulders mean a mandatory portage over a nice trail. Too many died trying these rapids. Since take-out at Mammoth Bar is much easier than Ruck-a-Chucky, most floaters prefer to continue downriver with an overnighter -- especially with commercial guides cooking and carrying. Camping permits required from the Auburn State Recreation Area -- except in developed campgrounds. Instead of lugging extra camping gear, many prefer having someone bring it to Ruck-a-Chucky Campground. Remember: “first come first served” for FIVE sites. Cherokee Bar Camp is another option, but longer shuttle (see Auburn State Recreation Area).
……Class II, 20 feet per minute; kayaks, advanced canoes, rafts, commercial guides; float 7 miles, shuttle 10 miles, paved roads except for last 2 miles of Drivers Flat Road, 40 min. See Auburn State Recreation Area Map.
……Nice training run or combined with the Tunnel Run makes a nice way to bring adrenaline levels back down. Time the beginning of your run to catch morning releases from Ralston Dam surging downriver by mid to late afternoon. Shortly below Mammoth Bar, Murderer’s Bar has carried its historic reputation on to modern times -- albeit for different reasons. Boating Murderer’s is not recommended. You lose only 2+ miles of river, but perhaps save your life. Below the Confluence, boating is not permitted.
See Directory Map
More remote locations limiting access plus the intrusion of three dams makes the Middle Yuba the snubbed sibling of the three branches of the Yuba watershed.
……Class III-IV+, 71 feet per minute, several portages including a Class VI gorge; kayaks; float 14 miles, shuttle 30 miles, including Plumbago Crossing access best done with 4WD, 1.5 hours.
……Tough run to Footes Crossing with hefty portages with few user trails.
……Class IV-V below Highway 49, 73 feet per minute, couple of portages; kayaks; float 12 miles, shuttle 14 miles, paved, except gravel to Rice Crossing, 30 minutes.
…… Lars Holbek likes the two runs below the Dam, which takes more than its share of water; so timing for spring runoff or big storms is everything. Above Highway 49 is marginal but below Highway 49 the 12 miles to Rice Crossing at the head of Englebright Reservoir is terrific. Save these for high runoff years.
See North Fork American River Maps: West & East
Wild to its core, the North Fork American River makes you work for your fun -- especially the upper reaches. Hiking 2-3 miles down knee-numbing trails, carrying or dragging everything is required. We’re not talking casual affairs; we’re talking commitment. The reaches in the lower-half (see Auburn State Recreation Area) offer choices of three access roads -- some even paved. Experts rate this fork the most challenging of the three Americans. Except, below Lake Clementine to the Confluence, we’re talking inner-tubes, inflatables, and beverage of choice.
……Class V+, 195 feet per minute, including several vertical VIs, several portages unless you’re into “steepcreeking;” kayaks of the extreme class; float 15 miles, shuttle 40+ miles driving with 30 including I-80, hiking 11 miles, too many hours. See North Form American River Map.
……Truly a Wild River seen -- from the bottom looking up -- by few kayakers and even hikers. First recorded run apparently made in July 1999. You need to be committed. The nearest public road above the Gorge travels through restricted private lands (see Donner Summit). With the south side of the Palisades Trail (see North Fork American River) blocked by landslides, the north access means 8 miles of hiking to get there. Then there are the 2-3 steep miles of hiking to get out at the bottom. River mileage is calculated by using the Generation Gap put-in (Beacroft Trail) as the take-out for this run as it lies below the Gorge (see North Fork American River Area). Since there are miles of great river ahead, why not head for Iowa Hill Road and at least avoid dragging kayaks uphill? Still the drag at the beginning of this run and the true steepcreeking class rapids will keep this spectacular segment from becoming popular.
……Class V, 75 feet per minute with some 120-145 feet per minute sections, 0-1 portages; kayaks; float 12 mile (if you want to drag a kayak uphill 1.5 miles), shuttle 55 miles, drive 2 hours, hike 3-4 hours. See North Fork American River Map.
……A fun, doable run, but you’ll get triple the fun for your 2.25 miles hike down Beacroft Trail (put-in) by adding Giant Gap and Chamberlain Falls runs (roughly 31 miles with less driving/hiking and more whitewater). Also consider beginning six miles up river via Sailor Flat Trail: longer trail (3.3 miles), but wider, and not as steep or rocky. Consider a long two or much easier three days so you’ll end up on a road and have a much shorter shuttle (38 miles, 1.5 hours). Also, if you must come up a trail, consider Dorer Ranch gated road instead of Euchre Bar Trail (see North Fork American Area): longer climb, but better grades, wide road, and much shorter shuttle since both approach the river from south side via the Foresthill Divide Road.
……Class V, 54 feet per minute with 100-120 feet per minute pitches; kayaks because of the hike down, but commercial rafting guides do this one for customers willing to pay for thrills with frills; float 14 miles, shuttle 19 miles, mostly paved with some I-80, driving 40 minutes, hiking with equipment two hours. See North Fork American River & Auburn State Recreation Area Maps.
……Nearly 30 years ago, the two thousand-foot deep chasm, Giant Gap, was considered un-runable. Now it’s classic in every sense of the adjective: whitewater thrills, relaxing or playful pools, sheer canyon beauty. Most run it in one day, even into dusk or dark to keep from carrying camping gear down. Yet, there are awesome camping spots -- your choice.
......Iowa Hill Road to Ponderosa Way:
……Class IV, 44 feet per minute; kayaks, rafts, commercial guides; float 9 miles, shuttle 12 miles, mostly paved, except for lower Yankee Jim, 45 min. See Auburn State Recreation Area Map.
……If Giant Gap is classic, then Chamberlain is the consummate fun run: challenging but not overwhelming for experts. But beware of sieve and strainer hazards. A Comparatively easy shuttle and the Colfax hospitality that is available mid-way along the shuttle, compensate for the short run. Below the Yankee Jim bridge the last 4+ miles is a relaxing Class II stretch; private parties often take out at Shirttail Creek. Also, consider adding up-river runs for more combined fun. Camping permits required from the Auburn State Recreation Area -- except in developed campgrounds.
……Class II-III, 21 feet per minute; kayaks, canoes, rafts; float 5 miles, shuttle 10 miles, some paved and some rough roads, 45 min. See Auburn State Recreation Area Map.
……Scenic training run, but take-out at Upper Clementine is gated at the top, early winter through mid-May. This means paddling 3.5 more miles to the dam on Lake Clementine. This is best done in spring before summer and speedboats and skiers become the greatest hazard of entire trip. Once the upper gate opens, late-May through June is best and allows take-out at the Upper Lake Picnic Area.
See North Yuba River Maps: Camptonville, Downieville, & Sierra City
Dam free and damn good whitewater for 31 miles above Bullards Reservoir. Natural flows through North Yuba canyons promise and deliver (in all but drought years) longer seasons, often well into June. Yet easy access along Highway 49 means many rapids can be scouted beforehand with several short run options and short shuttles between runs. Beer runs are also shorter, including comfort food and comfortable accommodations in Sierra City and Downieville
……Class IV-V, 109 feet per minute, above Union Flat 115 feet per minute; kayaks, expert rafters, commercial guides; float 13 miles, shuttle 13 miles, Highway 49, 20 min. See North Yuba River -- Sierra City & Downieville Maps.
……This run offers a high action-per-minute quotient with dense, dark forest where tree heights rival deep canyons for neck-bending scenery. Plus, Sierra City for breakfast and Downieville for supper! Alternate put-in: Union Flat Campground, 8 miles downstream, which eliminates the biggest part of the drop (80 feet per minute to Downieville).
……Class IV-V, 60 feet per minute; kayaks, rafts, commercial guides; float 4 miles, shuttle 4 miles, Highway 49, 15 min. See North Yuba River -- Downieville Maps.
……Fun run but most enthusiasts continue blasting down river for longer runs.
Carlton Campground is located immediately above the Highway 49 Bridge that makes the first crossing of the river after dropping into the canyon.
……Class IV with one suspense-building V, 49 feet per minute; kayaks, rafts, commercial guides; float 8 miles, shuttle 8 miles, Highway 49, 15 min. See North Yuba River - Downieville & Camptonville Maps.
……Great photo opportunity. Challenging run for those with intermediate skills, but scout the challenging rapids first. Maytag for sure. It’s not the falls, but the agitator rock that tosses you and your gear into the cliffs and then into the river.
……Bonus run: From Carlton (Highway 49 Bridge) to Bullard’s Reservoir: Class IV-V, 63 feet per minute, is a terrific float (6 miles), but the 12-mile flat-water paddle is a downer. My favorite guide meets rafts with a houseboat and refreshments for a fun tow across the reservoir.
……Class IV with one often-portaged V, 112 feet per minute; kayaks; float 3.2 miles, shuttle 2.6 miles, gravel road, 10 min. See North Fork River -- Downieville Map.
……Technical, scenic with big holes in a small “river” during high water. Not only does the run end next to the suburbs of Downieville, but Pauley Creek is a knife-thin ridge away, and shares the same 2nd Divide parking area and take-out. Take two -- one in the morning, one in the afternoon.
……Class III-IV but famous for its waterfalls, 145 feet per minute; kayaks; float 2.9 miles, shuttle 2.3 miles, gravel road, 10 min. See North Yuba River -- Downieville Map.
……Three great falls (15’-22’), although the last one at Pauley must be portaged in low waters. Not only is Pauley often crowded on spring weekends, but hikers stroll up from Downieville and watch to see if you make the falls. But beware, earlier in the run, overlooked ledge drops claim more equipment than the falls.
See South Yuba River Maps: Bridgeport, Malakoff, & Washington
Most famous of the threesome, but with the exception of two runs, more for swimming than boating. With 90% of natural flow rerouted to irrigation and household uses, the season is short and rafters usually ignore the South Yuba. Yet, in winter and spring runoff the last 11 miles are world class for kayakers. Size does count, especially matching the boat to the water.
……Class IV+, 69 feet per minute, several portages; kayaks; float 9 miles, shuttle 9 miles, I-80, 15 min. See Donner Summit & Grouse Ridge Maps.
……Most fun way to travel the I-80 corridor, but river traffic can also come to a halt. Not due to I-80’s famous winter storms and snow closing down the traffic, but during summer and fall when dams hold back runoff.
……Class IV-V, 123 feet per minute, several portages; kayaks; float 4 miles + 2 paddling Spaulding Reservoir, shuttle 15 min, I-80 and paved access to Spaulding Campground (fees). See Grouse Ridge & South Yuba River -- Washington Maps.
……Scenic, with several falls, where the last one dumps you practically into the reservoir with two miles of slack water getting to the parking area. Careful: more challenging than the classes seem to indicate.
……Class III-IV, 46 feet per minute, 1 portage; kayaks but rafts can do it with high runoff; float 14 miles, shuttle 25 miles, paved, 40 min. See North Yuba River -- Washington & Malakoff Maps.
……This one offers a nice intermediate run and a good training run. Watch for the one portage.
……III-IV+, 65 feet per minute; kayaks, expert rafts in high water; float 4 miles, shuttle 12 miles, paved except steep, rough drop to Purdon, 45 min. See South Yuba River -- Malakoff Map.
……We’re not talking world-class yet, but the action has stepped up and keeps getting better. Hang on. Combine this appetizer to warm up for a full day ahead.
……Class V, 125 feet per minute; kayaks; float 4 miles, shuttle 15 miles, after steep, rough climb out of Purdon, it’s all paved, 40 min. See South Yuba River -- Malakoff & Bridgeport Maps.
……Worth repeating: “world class” -- when the water is up. You dive down this run as well as the continuation below. More Vs per mile (10) than most, but beware there’s also a high count of undercuts and sieves. Even in winter and spring, low elevations mean warmer climate.
……Class V, 90 feet per minute with some 120 feet per minute stretches, 2 portages; kayaks; float 7 miles, shuttle 13 miles, paved Highway and county road, 25 min. See South Yuba River -- Bridgeport Map.
……This run has more of the same of the Purdon Crossing run, reaching 15 IV-Vs with challenging varieties. One more time: a pair of world class kayak runs -- when the water is up.
……Class IV-V, 123 feet per minute, with 150-220 feet per minute stretches, numerous portages; kayaks; float 10 miles + 2 paddling across Spaulding, shuttle 16 miles, 11 paved and I-80, but 5 requiring 4WD and waiting until late snow melt, two hours. See Grouse Ridge Map.
……If you are in to Creeking, find a 4WD somewhere in your crowd, and try this one. Experienced hands only, but many historic portages are now commonly run. This run offers gorgeous country with numerous falls and high boof quotient, and a later season than most.
See the East Slope Map
Only the Floristan stretch below Boca Creek is considered challenging. Still the easy access via I-80 from Reno makes this a popular river. Wide open meadows with east-slope character adds charm.
Class ½, but the float is a relaxing, lazy way to spend a warm afternoon with family or friends, inner-tubes or air mattresses, carrying or towing liquid refreshments. Rentals of floating paraphernalia are available in North Tahoe City and shuttles can pick you up at River Ranch.
……Class III for first 3 miles then II for the 8 miles to Truckee, 30 feet per minute; kayaks, advanced canoes during lower flows, especially below the 3-mile point; float 11 miles, shuttle 11 miles, Highway 89, 20 min.
……Numerous low bridges crossing to homes are biggest hazard, especially during high water. The run is a pleasant spring float, but restaurants and accommodations at both ends triple the pleasure. Several nice campgrounds, too (see Camping along Highway 89 corridor).
Another beginners, training, or canoe run for a pleasant ride through open sagebrush and young pines on this east-slope pleasure cruise.
……Class II with IVs near Floristan, 25 feet per minute except for 100 feet per minute Floristan rapids; kayaks, rafts, commercial guides; float 16 miles, shuttle 16 miles on I-80, 20 minutes.
…… Longer season because of Boca Reservoir releases with more excitement concentrated near Floristan, but pleasant scenery throughout. Take-out at Crystal Peak Park, Verdi, NV, now that Floristan diversion dam has been wiped out (but debates are ongoing for restoring it; check first).
The South Fork of the American is one of the most heavily used whitewater rivers in America. Each year about a quarter million people boat the section above Folsom Reservoir, almost half of them with commercial rafting outfitters. And there is good reason: this section of river is scenic, semi-remote but easy to access, and offers lot of exciting whitewater with a minimum of danger.
Getting to the River: The Strawberry, Kyburz, Riverton, Peavine, and Golden Gate runs are all near highway 50. The Silver Fork can be reached by turning south onto Silver Fork Road in Kyburz. Slab Creek reservoir can be reached by turning north from Pollock Pines onto Forebay Road.
Difficulty: Class 5 with several portages
Distance: 7 or 9.6 miles, one long day
Ideal Flow: 500-1000 cfs at take-out
The section from Strawberry to Kyburz is difficult and quite steep, some sections dropping over 200 feet per mile. The proximity of highway 50 provides some reassurance. From put-in at Strawberry to the 30' waterfalls above Eagle Rock picnic area there is only one
mandatory portage. From there to Eagle Rock, it's easier to portage along the road than down in the riverbed. The section from there to Kyburz starts steep and then eases up, but most expert kayakers simply stop at Eagle Rock, making a one-day, seven-mile trip.
Difficulty: Class 4 with two portages in upper part
Distance: 13.1 or 9.2 miles, one long or moderate day
Ideal Flow: 600-1200 cfs at put-in
The section from Kyburz to Indian Falls starts out steep but not terribly difficult. Shortly below the Silver Fork confluence, which comes in on the left, is a probable portage of a diversion dam. The carry seems easiest on the right side. Indian Falls used to be a class 6, but now looks like a class 5. It can be portaged on the left, or higher along the road on the right. Below Indian Falls the gradient is less steep, but boulder-garden rapids seem more difficult. Easier sections alternate with steep rapids containing large holes. Near the highway 50 bridge, a possible take-out, the river mellows considerably. After about a mile of easy rapids, the walls close in and there are some good class 4 rapids in a remote gorge. Be sure you recognize the Peavine take-out, because below you are committed to an extremely difficult, almost inescapable canyon.
Difficulty: Class 5 with portages, then 4, then 5+ with portages
Distance: 3.5 miles, 2.2 miles, 3.3 miles
Ideal Flow: 250-500 cfs at mid-point
Expert kayakers occasionally attempt two difficult sections on the Silver Fork. The upper 4-mile run has already claimed the life of Dugald Bremner, and the lower 3-mile run is even steeper and more difficult. In between are 2 miles of easier rapids that make for
a good afternoon of paddling.
Difficulty: Class 5+ with portages
Distance: 9.4 miles, one long day
Ideal Flow: 700-1400 cfs at take-out
The South Fork American from Peavine was dubbed the Golden Gate run because it was considered tantamount to suicide. Since the early days, attitudes have changed, but it remains one of the more difficult rivers that California boats in California? The first two miles are warm-up. The following 4.5 miles approach 200 feet per mile and contain many difficult and dangerous rapids. After Silver Creek (different from Silver Fork) comes in on the right, gradient eases, but a 15' waterfall called F-111 still remains. The take-out is on Slab Creek reservoir.
Difficulty: Class 5 with one portage
Distance: 7 miles plus walking, one day
Ideal Flow: 500-1500 cfs, kayakers like it lower than rafters
Below Slab Creek reservoir is another tough run, though not as difficult as Golden Gate. A flow study was done in fall 2003, showing that rafters enjoyed the run more above 1000 cubic feet per second (cfs). and kayakers more below 1000 cfs. Previously this section was usually either too low to boat, or so high as to intimidate even expert rafters. Hopefully this section will have scheduled releases and become more popular in the future.
Difficulty: Class 3+, then 2+, then 3
Distance: 20.5 miles, shorter runs common
Ideal Flow: 800-4000 cfs or higher
Beginning kayakers often run the section from Marshall Gold Discovery Park in Coloma to Greenwood Creek along highway 49, north of Coloma. This 5.5 mile segment contains nothing harder than class 2+ rapids, all of which occur near the end. There is a fee for parking at Marshall Gold Discovery Park, but it's only a short walk to the water. Parking for take-out is at a curve where highway 49 climbs away from the river; be careful there, because the speed limit is 55 mph and the BLM has not yet created a parking area.
Commercial rafting customers often camp with their outfitter along the river below Coloma. Some river camps have hot tubs and other amenities. The first day, customers usually start near Coloma, rafting the so-called "Gorge" run. This lower section of river is generally easier, and starts slower than the upper section. Nonetheless it contains some exciting rapids including Bouncing Rock, Satan's Cesspool and Hospital Bar. In summertime, photographers are stationed below the latter two rapids so people can buy pictures of themselves getting splashed or falling out. The trip ends about 12 miles below at the top of Folsom Reservoir.
The second day, customers usually raft the so-called "Chili Bar" run,which starts about 8 miles upstream and ends in Coloma. This one starts with a bang! Three good rapids are quickly followed by a long one called Meatgrinder, also known as Quarter Mile (that's how long it is). Rafts must make several precise moves or risk flipping. After that, good rapids continue unabated: Racehorse Bend, Maya, Triple Threat, and so forth. Rapids start to taper off as houses start to appear. But one more big rapid -- Troublemaker, the most difficult -- remains. Photographers work there recording mishaps, which occur frequently.
Kayakers and rafters who own their own equipment usually begin the Gorge Run at Henningsen Lotus County Park where there is a nice beach and a large parking lot (fee charge). From here it is 12.5 miles to Folsom Reservoir. The Chili Bar run can be done in the evening after work, if hydropower releases continue that long. In late summer when hydropower releases begin around 9 a.m., there is little point waiting in Coloma or Lotus for the water to come up! You might as well start at Chili Bar and spend your morning on the water.
Experienced boaters all have good stories about the Chili Bar or Gorge runs, starting with flips, long swims, and lost paddles in Meatgrinder. Racehorse Bend has a fence of sharp upturned slate strata just underwater near the end, so some swimmers end up in the hospital getting stitches. At high flows, the hole in Maya can flip rafts, and crews often swim Rock Garden as a result. At low flows, the line of kayakers waiting to surf this hole could really use a traffic light. First Threat has been known to flip boats even at moderate flows.
One of the best stories is from Troublemaker. Years ago, the El Dorado County Sheriff was not very popular. He devoted most of his time to ticketing river runners for minor infractions. One day his oar boat got wrapped on Gunsight Rock near the bottom of Troublemaker. For hours nobody stopped to help him, until finally, some out-of-towners visiting from the Southeast helped him get unwrapped.
On the Gorge run, there are many funny stories of commercial guides wrapping at inconsequential places such as Current Divider, or newbies losing their boats at Highway Rapid. Bouncing Rock often flips boats and the swim there is shallow, bumpy and bruising. Almost everybody has flipped or swam at Satan's Cesspool during their formative years. Hospital Rock and Surprise Rapid (when reservoir levels are low) also create their shares of carnage.
Getting to the River: To reach Chili Bar, drive north on highway 49 from Placerville. Just past town, turn right onto Highway 193 and descend steeply to the river. To reach Coloma, return to the edge of Placerville and continue north and downhill on Highway 49 until you reach a bridge across the river.
Getting to the River: To reach Salmon Falls bridge at the upper end of Folsom reservoir, continue north and downstream on Highway 49. After 7 miles turn left on Salmon Falls Road near the town of Pilot Hill. This road goes moderately uphill before descending steeply to the river.
Tuthill's California Creekin' Website is a detailed whitewater and touring guide for California boating. River descriptions usually contain links to real-time flow information.
Difficulty: Class 4+ with maybe a dozen class 5 rapids, class 5 at higher water
Distance: 23 miles, requires 2 or 3 days
Ideal Flow: 200-500 CFS at put-in, 2x or 3x as much at take-out
The Rubicon River of the Central Sierra Nevada is the southern tributary of the Middle Fork American. The famous Rubicon is the small river Julius Caesar and his army crossed to re-invade Rome in 49 BC. California’s Rubicon is a more majestic river, and crossing it is nearly as dramatic as in Roman times, but can be done without an army. Connecting narrow dirt roads on north and south banks, Ellicott Bridge is the only way across the lower river, and it’s doubtful anyone could find it without a good map.
The upper watershed is a labyrinth of rock and alpine forests. The Rubicon begins in Rockbound Valley, at the center of Desolation Wilderness. Middle Velma Lake, along the Pacific Coast Trail, feeds into the Rubicon, whereas Upper and Lower Velma Lakes drain the other way into Lake Tahoe and eventually into the Nevada desert. This section might be runnable in kayaks at the peak of snowmelt.
Downhill and north of Desolation Wilderness, an old road from the pioneer days crosses the river: the Rubicon Trail (McKinney road) is the holy grail of vehicular prowess. From Loon Lake the Rubicon Trail requires serious 4WD as it proceeds eastward. It crosses the upper Rubicon River once (on a bridge) before climbing eastward along Miller Creek and then descending to Lake Tahoe near Homewood.
Between the Rubicon Trail and Hell Hole Reservoir, the Rubicon drops steeply through a rocky gorge. Hell Hole is a large reservoir where motorboats are allowed. Good camping is available at the far (east) side of the reservoir. Hell Hole’s earthen-fill dam gave way in the winter of 1964, flooding the entire canyon, scouring out vegetation, and re-arranging large boulders that form many of the great rapids on the Rubicon. “More good rapids in 20 miles than any river I know” is how guidebook author Dan Dunlap summarized it. It is awe-inspring to see the height of the old-tree line and imagine the maelstrom of 1964. Lucky it was lightly populated!
The 16 mile stretch from Hell Hole reservoir to Ellicott Bridge is seldom boated, partly due to lack of water, and partly because kayaking pioneer Chuck Stanley didn’t enjoy it much, judging by comments in his guidebook.
The 23 mile stretch from Ellicott Bridge to Ralston Afterbay, the nominal confluence with the Middle Fork American, is more frequently boated. In most years there is sufficient runoff from low-elevation snowmelt to create a kayaking season of several weeks. The one time we tried this, we found ourselves with kayak paddles in hand, having neglected to bring snow shovels, digging out our 4WD truck with snow chains on the rear tires! Several times!! But eventually we made it to the river.
A better idea is to wait for a big-snowpack year, when Hell Hole reservoir might spill. This provides a good even flow from start to finish, instead of early snowmelt flows that are too low at put-in but too high at take-out. Dam operators sure can divert a lot of water, however, so kayakers are often disappointed waiting for spill to occur.
Whitewater rapids on the Rubicon are very difficult, including many waterfalls of questionable safety, and some spots where boats and bodies could become entrapped. Please be careful when approaching this river as a recreational boater. On our trip, one boater was washed underneath a rock trap, and saved himself only by crawling along the bottom, against the current. On that same trip, we rescued two gold miners and their dog, after they had descended a cliff that trapped them along the river above a major rapid.
The Rubicon could be called the South Fork of the Middle Fork – there is a North Fork of the Middle Fork – but it’s nice having unusual river names. Early Tahoe settlers named the river after the Rubicon between Italy and France, the one Julius Caesar made famous. The name also graces other features, such as Rubicon Springs, Rubicon Reservoir, Rubicon Peak, and Rubicon Lake.
Finding the River: To reach the confluence of Rubicon and Middle Fork American rivers, turn south from Interstate 80 in Auburn onto Foresthill Road. Just before downtown Foresthill, turn south onto Mosquito Ridge Road. Turn right at French Meadow Road, take the first right turn, and descend. Cross the Middle Fork on a bridge and continue toward the powerhouse, where you can judge flow. To reach put-in from there, continue east on French Meadow Road. Follow AAA and USFS (Eldorado) maps to Ellicot bridge 23 miles upstream.
Tuthill's California Creekin' Website is a detailed whitewater and touring guide for California boating. River descriptions usually contain links to real-time flow information.
The Cosumnes is a relatively low-elevation Sierra river that flows into the Mokelumne River northwest of Lodi, then into the Sacramento delta. Unlike most other Sierra rivers, the Cosumnes is largely free-flowing. (Aside from Jenkinson reservoir on its northernmost tributary and several small diversion dams, the Cosumnes lacks impoundments, due to meager snowpack.
The North Fork Cosumnes originates west of Silver Lake on highway 88, and is joined by Camp Creek southeast of Placerville. In the spring, Camp Creek hosts a fine Class 4+ kayak run ending with multiple portages, one around a waterfall featuring a rusty old bulldozer embedded in the granite. The third edition of the Holbek-Stanley kayaker’s guidebook describes two Class 5 runs on the North Fork above Sweeney Road near Somerset. After the confluence with Camp Creek, the North Fork is relatively tame until Bucks Bar road. This section makes a pleasant float when there is sufficient water. About a mile below Bucks Bar bridge, the river enters a steep bare-rock gorge where it goes berserk. In some spots, most of the water flows beneath giant boulders, making this stretch a mandatory portage. After emerging from the gorge, the North Fork becomes boatable again, but there is no public access to this section. Just upstream of the highway 49 bridge, the North Fork meets the Middle Fork, which usually carries an approximately equal amount of water.
The Middle Fork Cosumnes originates just north of highway 88 near Foster Meadow road, dropping steeply through granite gorges. Far upstream there is a USFS campground along the river on North-South road, most easily accessible from highway 88 at Cooks Station. The Middle Fork continues dropping as it flows west, and is soon joined by Dogtown Creek and Sopiago Creek. Between Rocky Bar and Mt. Aukum roads, the river drops even faster, and is considered too steep for boating. Below there, the river is mostly flat until Outingdale, where guidebook author Charles Foster began his 1974 description of the Middle Fork Cosumnes kayak run.
The South Fork Cosumnes originates near Cooks Station on highway 88, and is a really just a rain-fed creek. It meets the Middle Fork shortly upstream from the North Fork confluence. Due to lack of flow, the South Fork’s streambed is narrow and heavily vegetated, so to my knowledge nobody has attempted to kayak it.
If I could pick my favorite spot on the Cosumnes, it would be Amphitheater Slot on the Middle Fork. A beautiful large granite outcropping reminds me of the high Sierra, from where we always scout the challenging Class 4 rapid before facing its diagonal waves in a very narrow slot sculpted into the bedrock.
Difficulty: Class 4 with no portages!
Distance: 10 miles, one day
Ideal Flow: 300 – 900 cfs, estimate 40% of flow at Michigan Bar
Below Outingdale, early kayakers encountered a narrow granite gorge, which they were forced to portage. Nowadays many kayakers start paddling by carrying down an old 4WD road accessible from Sand Ridge road, which avoids the portagefest upstream. From the end of this 4WD road to highway 49, the Middle Fork makes a classic Class 4 kayak run as it drops through scenic granite gorges and forest-lined boulder bars.
Difficulty: Class 4 with one portage, then Class II
Distance: 10.2 miles, one day
Ideal Flow: 500 – 2500 cfs, flow measured at Michigan Bar
Below highway 49, all forks of the Cosumnes have come together. In warm weather the freshwater pools downstream of the bridge are popular with swimmers, as attested by the litter and broken beer bottles. In winter and early spring this stretch makes an excellent advanced kayak run, starting with almost a dozen Class 4 rapids followed by a mandatory portage around spectacular Old & Gray Falls. In summer some folks trespass to the falls, where they swim in the pools below, although at least one swimmer died when she got trapped in the swirling-eddy cave on the left below Old & Gray’s final drop. Kayakers who enjoy the Class 4 drops above Old & Gray may be somewhat bored by the easier Class 2 rapids from the waterfalls to Latrobe Road.
At Latrobe Road, the county has prohibited parking within ¼ mile of the bridge, so kayakers sometimes tangle with law enforcement authorities while unloading or loading boats. Perhaps parking restrictions were imposed primarily to discourage picnickers and swimmers because the waterfalls shortly below Latrobe Road is popular with locals as a summer swimming hole, called County Line Hole.
Difficulty: Class 3 (one class 4 rapid) with two portages
Distance: 9.8 or 6.4 miles, one day
Ideal Flow: 500 – 3000 cfs, flow measured at Michigan Bar
From Latrobe Road to highway 16 near Rancho Murieta lies a semi-popular winter and springtime Class 3 raft and kayak run. Taking out at Michigan Bar road would make this run shorter and more enjoyable, but the landowner there has managed to prohibit boater access, although it is a public road. Several minor rapids downstream of Latrobe Road, the river enters a wide rocky area and drops into Cosumnes Falls. During boating season the river funnels toward the right side of the bedrock outcroppings, so this should be portaged on the right. At flood stage this must be quite a maelstrom! Downstream several major rapids occur. The first is the biggest, and is probably Class 4 under certain conditions. Enjoyable rapids continue through a mini-gorge until Michigan Bar road. Below is a long flat stretch where the river backs up behind a high diversion dam. We usually portage the dam from the right side of a long island above, but I have seen one daredevil kayaker run the dam. Willow trees impede on the channel below the dam, due to lowered summertime flows, but the take-out is shortly below.
Downstream of highway 16, inner tubers and rubber duckies sometimes ply the river, but this can be hazardous at high flows due to obstructions in the channel. Gradient is low, and scenery agricultural, so this stretch is not as popular as those upstream. Because there are no dam releases on the Cosumnes, in summertime it is not even possible to canoe this stretch, as on the lower Tuolumne or Mokelumne.
Tuthill's California Creekin' Website is a detailed whitewater and touring guide for California boating. River descriptions usually contain links to real-time flow information.
The Mokelumne River, a major source of drinking water for Contra Costa and Alameda counties, is sandwiched between the American River on the north and the Stanislaus River on the south. The South and Middle Forks of the Mokelumne drain relatively low-elevation areas, but the North Fork carries snowmelt all summer long from the mountains north and west of Bear Valley Ski Area (Mount Reba) along highway 4. Due to its reliable flow, the North Fork hosts a series of reservoirs and dams with which PG&E generates hydropower.
The Mokelumne is unusual in having many navigable sections from top to bottom of the watershed. Only a few stretches, mostly near midpoint where the three forks tumble over granite cliffs, are unrunnable by experienced whitewater boaters.
The Middle Fork Mokelumne probably has whitewater runs similar to the South Fork, but nobody has told me of one, and I have not investigated. From a topological standpoint, the most promising sections are from the campsite below Schaads Reservoir down to Highway 26, or above Schaads Reservoir from Blue Mountain Road.
Difficulty: Class 5+ with at least 5 portages
Distance: 25 miles, requires 3 days
Ideal Flow: 600-800 CFS at take-out, late spring
The uppermost run on the North Fork Mokelumne starts where Highway 4 crosses on a bridge at the west side of Hermit Valley, 7060’ above sea level. This is an experts-only run that takes about three days to complete. Amid the beautiful alpine scenery, there are bedrock slides, waterfalls, and the usual boulder slaloms. Many rapids require scouting, and even the best kayakers portage at least several times. The strenuous adventure ends in Salt Springs Reservoir, which can be reached by turning off Highway 4 at Cabbage Patch onto Winton Road (7N09), with a good map in hand. This expert kayak run is described in the Holbek/Stanley guidebook, The Best Whitewater in California.
Getting to the River: To reach the upper reaches North Fork Mokelumne, drive west on Highway 4 toward the summit.
Difficulty: Class 3-4 with one class 5 and a portage
Distance: 15 miles, one long day
Ideal Flow: 500-2000 CFS at take-out, dam-controlled
Immediately below Salt Springs Reservoir, rapids on North Fork Mokelumne are easy at first, but the river is dewatered much of the time by hydropower diversions. There are many good campsites in this area. Some steep class 3-4 rapids occur above Bear Creek.
Where Bear Creek joins from the north, there is often enough water for boaters who get an early start and don’t mind scraping on rocks. The 15 river miles between there and Tiger Creek Reservoir start with easy class 2 rapids punctuated by slightly more difficult boulder slaloms. The rapids become progressively harder, finally culminating in class 5 Mokelumne Falls, which can be portaged with difficulty. At one time it was said to be unrunnable and unscoutable, but at low and moderate flows, both are possible. Shortly below the falls, a 15’ diversion dam requires portaging. This run is described in the Holbek/Stanley guidebook, and pictured on the Creekin.net website.
Getting to the River: To reach the lower runs on the North Form Mokelumne, drive downhill from Highway 88 on one of many roads.
Difficulty: Class 3-4 with one 4+ near the end
Distance: 3 miles, half day
Ideal Flow: 500-2000 CFS at take-out, dam-controlled
Below Tiger Creek Dam lies a short class 4 run that would be very popular if it had a scheduled release. This might happen in the future when the PG&E hydropower permit comes up re-licensing. The put-in is down a dirt road just below Tiger Creek dam. The take-out is at the bridge where Red Corral Road crosses the North Fork. This run is described in the Holbek/Stanley guidebook.
Below Red Corral Road, the North Fork Mokelumne runs amok, dropping from 2020’ to under 1000’ in just a few miles. The South and Middle Forks also fall over this same geological feature, and the three forks come together near the bottom of these cliffs.
Getting to the River: To reach the lower runs on the North Form Mokelumne, drive downhill from Highway 88 on one of many roads.
Difficulty: Class 3-4 with one probable portage
Distance: 9 miles, one good day
Ideal Flow: 200-1000 CFS at take-out, early spring
The South Fork Mokelumne is runnable upstream. A superb run with class 4 rapids lies between Summit Level Road and Highway 26, although local landowners seem to think the river is their private property. At take-out you can hear the waterfalls beginning shortly below. This run is described as the “Mystery Run” on the Creekin.net website.
Difficulty: Class 3 with the hardest rapid at the end
Distance: 3 miles, full day combined with run below
Ideal Flow: 300-2000 CFS at put-in, variable season
Below all the waterfalls, where the three forks have joined, there is an obscure but highly prized class 3+ run from Ponderosa Road to Electra Powerhouse. The problem is that this section has optimum flows only for a short time between peak snowmelt and summer drought, depending on weather conditions.
Difficulty: Class 2+ with one class 3
Distance: 5.5 miles, one day with possible reruns
Ideal Flow: 450-3000 CFS at put-in, all year long
The most famous and heavily used stretch of the Mokelumne is near highway 49, from Electra Picnic Area to Middle Bar Access. This is a good class 2 training run for kayakers and whitewater canoeists. It starts out very easy and gets progressively more difficult with The Slot and S-Turn. Below the Highway 49 bridge it gets even harder, culminating in class 3 Devil’s Toilet Bowl. Some kayakers take out here and run it again (there is a steep trail from the Bowl to a parking turn-out up the southern slope of Highway 49). Below this exciting spot, rapids get progressively easier down to Middle Bar bridge and river access, although wildlife viewing opportunities increase. I have seen blue herons there on every trip.
Getting to the River: To reach take-out for the Electra run, drive south on Highway 49 almost 5 miles from Jackson, or north more than 3 miles from Mokelumne Hill, until you reach the bridge at the bottom of the hill. To reach put-in from there, drive up the river on one-lane Electra Road, paying close attention to oncoming traffic. The Electra picnic area, with parking, outhouses, and many non-boaters, is about three miles away.
Difficulty: Class 1 with strainer hazards
Distance: 4.5 miles, can be extended 20 miles to Lake Lodi
Ideal Flow: 600-2000 CFS at put-in, all year long
Below Pardee Reservoir, which feeds directly into Camanche Reservoir, a modicum of water is released into the riverbed all year long, making it possible to canoe this stretch. Most boaters start below Camanche Dam and finish at Stillman-McGee County Park. This trip can be extended 20 miles down to Lake Lodi. These runs are described in the Ann Dwyer guidebook, Easy Waters of California.
Tuthill's California Creekin' Website is a detailed whitewater and touring guide for California boating. River descriptions usually contain links to real-time flow information.