Several rock climbing areas are easily accessed along the I-80 corridor from the Truckee River canyon, over Donner Pass to Bowman Road. Not only can you try different routes over an individual crag to stretch your skill level, but more crags with unique challenges lie only minutes away. Some climbs include metamorphic rock, which rewards those climbers skilled in intricate, dynamic movements over positive square cuts with only occasional pockets. Others climbs offer granite/volcanic cliffs of fine-grained basalt. These show clean cracks and smooth faces with angular holds that present a different kind of challenge.

Only a scant few miles away, several communities eagerly provide climbers with all the necessities they might require and as many ways to have fun as there are climbing varieties. Tahoe-Donner/Soda Springs sit only minutes away. Truckee, the Mecca of all outdoors sports, is also just minutes away, while Tahoe City tosses in Lake Tahoe as an additional bonus. Within these areas, Mike Carville has identified over 560 routes in his excellent Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe (a Falcon Guide). With the extensive popularity and growth of rock climbing, you can be sure new routes are waiting to be found.

Many outdoor activities include risks. We are all too aware of the gravity of making a mistake while rock climbing. Injury or even death can be the consequence of mistakes. We have provided only specific destinations, not detailed climbing routes such as we do for hiking trails. SierraOutdoorRecreation.com relies on Mike’s book and, unless you’ve already mastered all 500-plus routes in this area, we recommend climbers acquire a copy. SierraOutdoorRecreation.com cannot provide his level of detail with photographs, sketches, and mapped routes. Our desire is to make you aware of some of the best opportunities in our backyard, without sharing specifics of routes and difficulty ratings. Ultimately we are each responsible for assessing our abilities and choices.

Given the high elevation altitudes for these sites, the presence of snow limits climbing seasons to (usually) May through October. The following lists the most popular climbing areas:

CLIMBING AREAS:

......Bowman Lake:

See Grouse Ridge Maps.

This small, high quality crag lies west and below Bowman Lake on the approach to the dam. It includes eight recorded routes with more being developed.

Primitive camping is allowed near the dam.

Directions: Follow Hwy 20 for 23 miles east from Nevada City (or 4.6 miles west of the Hwy 20/I-80 intersection). Turn north on Bowman Lake Road and follow the paved road until it turns into a gravel road. Continue north until crossing Canyon Creek below the dam. Continue up the road. The cliff lies underneath the road, which continues to the top of the dam.

......Donner Summit:

See Donner Summit Maps.

These granitic cliffs that were the bane to the emigrants in the mid-1800s, today draw climbing enthusiasts from all over. Busy, sunny weekends can mean lines and waits for the more popular routes. But, with over 330 recorded routes, there are numerous choices and a wide gamut of challenges, including some classic bouldering opportunities.

Being very close to the summit, forget swimming in nearby cold streams or the river, and the lakes are definitely chilly. But, Truckee is within sight. Cold beer and a hot tub or refreshing shower are only minutes away. The Donner Memorial State Park campground offers hot showers.

Directions: Access old Hwy 40 as it crosses Donner Pass. From the west, exit at Soda Springs and go east to the summit and the concrete Rainbow Bridge area. From the east, take the old Donner Pass Road (old Hwy 40) out of Truckee west by Truckee Lake and follow uphill to just below the summit. You’ll see crags before long -- seemingly everywhere -- as you approach the summit.

......The Emeralds

See South Yuba River-Washington Map and Grouse Ridge Maps.

The Emeralds, a combination of highly metamorphosed sedimentary and igneous rock similar to limestone, lie above the South Yuba River directly downstream of Spaulding Reservoir. The Emeralds area contains over 60 recorded routes.

Primitive camping is allowed along the access road. Rapid flooding can occur within minutes when water is released from Spaulding. If you are in the Gorge area, move out of it quickly at the first sign of increased flow.

Directions: Follow Hwy 20 for 23 miles east from Nevada City (or 4.6 miles west of the Hwy 20/I-80 intersection). Turn north on Bowman Lake Road and follow the paved road 1.4 miles. Immediately before reaching the Lang Crossing Bridge on the South Yuba River, turn right (east) on an unmarked dirt road and follow it upriver for about 0.6 mile. (If the gate is locked, park at Lang Crossing.) Walk or drive past the old quarry and watch for the first set of climbing crags on the right and The Gorge on the left below the dam.

......Indian Springs

See Grouse Ridge Maps.

This is a three-tiered crag located just north of I-80 near Cisco Grove (with food and gas). It includes over 20 recorded routes, but can be counted on (usually) as a place to get away from the crowds.

Indian Spring campground lies minutes away. It’s hot in the summer, but the South Yuba River always provides a refreshing dip.

Directions: Exit I-80 about 1.0 mile west of Cisco Grove onto the Eagles Lake frontage road. Follow for 0.5 mile and park below the prominent crag.

......Rainbow

See NFA River-East Map.

A small granite cove, Rainbow offers nearly 30 routes, but is lacking in long, moderate routes, or sufficient easier routes. But again, a place with some fine climbs while avoiding the weekend crowds.

It is adjacent to Big Bend with the Rainbow Lodge (great dining, fun bar, overnight accommodations) east up the road or Cisco Grove a few minutes up Old Hwy 40.The South Yuba awaits climbers seeking a refreshing dip after some hot climbs. Hampshire Rocks provides the nearest developed camping.

Directions: Exit I-80 shortly east of Cisco Grove at the Big Bend exit. Follow the paved road (old Hwy 40) east, cross the South Yuba River, and park along the highway before reaching the FS Big Bend Visitors Center. A 10-minute walk south on users trail beginning across from the Visitors Center takes you to an obvious granite cul-de-sac.

Truckee River Canyon

See East Slope Maps.

Several volcanic cliffs stretch along the river between Truckee and North Tahoe City. Over 100 routes have been recorded, but many require toproping and special attention must be given for falling rocks from the shattered tops. Access allows year-round climbing, but keep in mind all bridges crossing the river are private and lead to private land.

Granite Flat, Goose Meadows, and Silver Creek Campgrounds spread along the short highway between Truckee and Tahoe City. Each town offers all necessities and has a nice gamut of amenities.

Directions: Along the Truckee River between Tahoe City and Truckee and Hwy 89 lie at least 5 major climbing areas. Some are best accessed from below while others lie uphill far enough to be accessed by secondary roads above (FS Road #06 and side roads), but can not be seen from Road #06. Most crags can readily be seen from Highway 89; see Carville’s Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe for directions to each of the areas.

Campgrounds with Rock Climbing opportunities

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